La Fillette Revolutionaire

New cosplay project under way: Tenjou Utena of Shoujo Kakumei Utena fame.

That's right, we're going retro again!

...more like I'm dating myself...

Whatever. xD

 I only started two days ago, and already have a decent amount done. Not that it's a particularly difficult costume, I suppose; it's just a matter of getting the details right.

What I wanted to do with Utena is draw on the historic influence that Saito Chiho-Sensei and the Be-Papas obviously used in the uniforms: obviously those of the Napoleonic French and American Civil War. I find that in making cosplays it's important, not only to make it your own, but to make it realistic. Sure, you can go the the store, buy six yards of broadcloth, make your costume, and go to con saying "Look! It looks just like it does in the picture!". But it "looks flat" to use Katie Bair's words. And this is a true statement. No one walks around look distinctly two dimensional in the real world, so I believe some thought needs to go into to making the costumes consistent, but believable.

For Utena this started with some research into the military uniforms of the mid-1800s. These were generally made of cotton, linen, or wool: all of which would have been economical and easy to obtain. The shoulder scales were made of bronze, gold, or similar metals; the under-sides lined with satin, and the tops with bullion.

I displayed the fabric and lining of Utena some time back, when I first purchased them. The lining is not period at all, being polyester, but this hardly matters as it's not seen anyway (this isn't always the case). The coat itself is made of a cotton-polyester mix. Granted, I was not completely sure of it's material composition when I first purchased it at the thrift store, but I knew that it had some cotton in it. The pattern on this fabric is what I was keenly interested in. The blue uniform is the one she receives from "her Prince" as a reminder to being strong and noble, and I wanted to be sure that the outfit I am creating bore a regal image- and is not flat.

The greater part of the coat has already ben stitched together- though I have no photos yets. Butterick pattern #4929 with a combination of views "B" and "D" is what I am using. In keeping with this historic accuracy, I am adding epaulets to the shoulders. These will button down properly and hold the scales in place just as is the case on Officer's uniforms. Not velcro, no safety pins, no glue. Epaulets.

 I will also be shortening the overall garment, but for the time being, it falls nearly to my knees. I have not determined quite where I want the coat to hit. And I am adamant about the pink ruffles depicted under the coat actually being ruffly! I ws viewing other Utena cosplays yesterday, and was shocked at how many were flat, or had a token skirt-like bit under the coat. None of that. I want frills and ruffles and poofiness- it's pretty much going to be a small petticoat. >D

The hair will be combination of two wigs. I purchased one, of decent quality and perfect color, but was unimpressed with it's thickness. I returned to the store and purchased a second, which I have since dismantled. The strands are sitting in order on a bookshelf waiting to be stitched to the first wig.

The scales/shoulder boards have been the most difficult piece thus far. Not due to construction, but simply because it took so long to find information on the actual construction! No one seems to have taken apart the scales found from the Civil War to see what's inside of them, which, frankly, flabbergasts me.

I finally found some details on shoulder boards from Russia in World War I and proceeded using this information. The interiors have been made of cardboard, glued together, which is perfectly period. Metal would have added to the "regal appearance", but I don't have access to a forge and, once again, no one can see that anyway. The exteriors of these shoulder board are of a gold synthetic material. Batting was added, and quilted through to the provide the same look often seen on period boards.


In coming days I will be making the other half of the scales, though I have not solidified my construction plans. Once again, with out metallurgical skills, they will not be period- but they will look authentic.