Epaulets and Epaulettes

For the sake of distinguishing the word "epaulets" is used to refer to the fabric sewn onto the shoulders that buttons near the collar; "epaulettes" indicates the combination of shoulder boards and half-spheres held on by the epaulets.

In truth I do not believe there is any true significance in the historic usage and spelling one way or another, but I need some way to distinguish between them. XD

As stated before, my lack of glass manipulation abilities, or metallurgical skills was not going to keep me from creating proper-looking epaulettes. In "Wig Curling Lab 102 + Epaulettes" I described how I began to make these adornments.

Two different sizes of trim were used to make the gold edge. The first, smaller size, was attached to twill tape that could be folded under to hide the plastic edge. I figured out real quick that hot glue warped the plastic, which did not matter at the moment, but would in the future. 

Once the trim encircled and enclosed the edge of the plastic, I glued the shoulder boards into place. Truth be told, they aren't exact: one is about 1/4, maybe 1/2 cm longer than the other- but you can't tell, so keep it a secret. ;) The larger diameter trim was glued over the twill tape, and designed for the edges to butt right up against shoulder boards.

Next came the cord. I wanted to be authentic with seven larger cord on each shoulder, but as historically accurate as I could. Plus, there was no way I was going to use cutouts of stiff paper, or pieces of fabric, or whatever else. My initial consideration was to use wool yarn, which would have been period appropriate. I eventually nixed this option because a) wool yarn is a bit pricey and (more importantly b) wool yarn is fuzzy, and I did not at all want furry epualette cords. Instead I chose cotton, which was also period, more cost effective, and better matched the rest of the outfit

It took nearly the whole 200 yard spool to make the cord. One hundred and twenty six, 96 inches-long pieces were cut and divided into 14 sets. Each set was subsequently tied to the frame of a set of shelves (it had to be something sturdy enough to not fall over when I tugged on it). The opposite ends were tied about a small wooden rod and spun, exactly 65 times each, by hand. When the twirled cords were tight enough, and keeping the tension high, I folded them in half, and let go of the middle. This caused them to spin in on themselves and create the thick cords you see.

These measured at about 6" long when tied and cut off. The rough edges were quickly glued together to ensure they did not fray, and then they were glued to the ornaments. This is where I needed to remember that the hot glue would melt the plastic. The glue was put on the edges of the cords, then I waited 10 or so seconds before putting them to the orb. This was the heat was diminished, but the tackiness was not.

Everything was left to cool, then jya~n: two pretty awesome epaulettes

A few of notes:

• I painted the shoulder boards, first with a flat acrylic, and again with a metallic acrylic paint. The original color of the fabric covering these just looked terrible against everything else, so I adjusted them to match.
• The trims are cotton, not synthetic based, so the ends would burn rather than melt (when trying to keep them from fraying). Instead of using heat, the sections were measured, and the cutting locations were drenched in fray check. Once things dried, the trims could be cut and remain in shape.
• The shoulder boards each had a strip of twill tape glued to the underside that the epaulet will slip through to keep the epaulette in place.